Finger Pain (D.I.P joint) in Rock Climbing

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Written by: Jason Smith, Registered Physiotherapist, MSc(PT), CSEP-CPT, CIDN, FCAMPT

 

Check the video for a comprehensive chat with GRSM Physiotherapist Jason Smith about why pain occurs at our distal interphalangeal (D.I.P) joints, and what we can do about it!

 

1. Manage acute and cumulative loads in the 1/2 crimp position.

2. Warm-up the joints by progressively increasing load in the 1/2 crimp position on small holds. See @c4hp for more info on using recruitment pulls.

3. Hangboard! Consider Eva Lopez-Rivera’s minimum edge protocol as outlined at Eric Horsts’ @training4climbing
Website training for climbing.com

4. Consider taping and open hand climbing to help reduce the load short term.

Jason Smith GRSM Kitchener-South Physiotherapist
Jason Smith, MSc(PT), CSEP-CPT, CIDN, FCAMPT
Registered Physiotherapist

Jay graduated from McMaster University in 2011 with a Masters of Physiotherapy. His previous education includes a Bachelor of Arts in Kinesiology in 2009 from Western University. Jason has obtained his FCAMPT (Fellow of the Canadian Academy of Manipulative Physiotherapy) designation. This designation is internationally recognized, and follows a comprehensive post-graduate training program that solidifies manual therapy skills, teaches advanced clinical reasoning, and allows him to perform spinal manipulation. Jay is also certified in Integrative Dry Needling, which he uses to release muscular restrictions throughout in the body. Jay is also a Certified Personal Trainer with the Canadian Society for Exercise Physiology (CSEP-CPT). He enjoys working with high level athletes, especially towards the later stages of their rehab as they approach return to sport. In addition to this, Jay is a certified Sport First Responder, and former team physiotherapist for the Guelph Gryphon’s Men’s Varsity Rugby team. Jay is also certified in ImPACT Concussion Management, and is a Functional Movement Screen (FMS) Specialist.

In his spare time, Jay enjoys rock climbing, mountain biking, hiking, camping, and spending time with friends and family.

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