3 Common Varieties of Pull-Ups

Written by: Jason Smith, Registered Physiotherapist, MSc(PT), CSEP-CPT, CIDN, FCAMPT

Here are 3 very common varieties of pull-ups that bias slightly different muscle groups. Choose your variety to best tailor your training and rehab to your individual weaknesses and goals. 1. Chin-ups: Performed in a fully supinated position (palms towards your face), these preferentially recruit the BICEPS more so than other varieties. WHEN TO USE: – Training underling strength – Training for very steep or roof climbing -training around a BRACHIORADIALIS injury – Can bias hangboard training this way to train wrist and finger strength in wrist flexion. We naturally produce less force in this position due to the length tension relationship of our finger flexors, so there’s certainly value in specifically training this. 2. Pull-up: Performed in a fully pronated position (palms away from face), this variety more closely mimics the majority of climbing. Here we preferentially load a muscle called the BRACHIORADIALIS, also known as the beer drinking muscle 🍻. This is a big reason why a lot of amazingly strong sport climbers don’t have large biceps. They do however have massive brachioradiali. If you don’t know, now you know! WHEN TO USE: – For generalized sport specific strength in relation to climbing. Should be default preference for pull strength training for climbers. – Training around a biceps injury 3. Wide Grip Pull-up: Similar to a regular Pull-up with additional demands on scapular and glenohumeral (shoulder ball and socket joint) STABILITY. Huge demand to scapular stabilizers and rotator cuff muscles. 💪 WHEN TO USE: – Highlight strength asymmetries (when one arm is significantly stronger than the other) – Use to increase shoulder stability for really “shouldery” moves such as long arm spans, wide reaching, iron-cross type maneuvers.